Finding Peace In Yemen

Abdulraoof paces the burnt-black rocks under a dragon blood tree, its sap oozing from the bark — a natural healer. This mysterious land, where 37% of plants and 90% of reptiles exist nowhere else, feels like a secret Earth kept for herself. An Egyptian vulture stands nearby, curious about our invasion. Our guide runs his fingers across the tree, gathering blood-red resin on a fingertip.

As we hike in the searing Socotra sun, Abdulraoof takes light and steady steps in rubber sandals as we struggle to find footholds.

He pauses before he speaks, gathering his words like a child collecting stones. He stops to remind me to sip my water. Minutes later, he places two fingers on his forearm, making a circular motion.

“The sun is the greatest threat on the island.”

He keeps a close watch over the sun and the hearts beating around him. Unlike the others, he has seen places like Istanbul and Muscat. He studied in Saudi Arabia.

“Did you think about staying in Saudi Arabia?”

“No, Socotra is home. My family is here. There is real peace here.”

We arrive at a natural infinity pool, narrowly outpacing the sun. The marine layer has obscured a sea-born horizon. Bright red freshwater crabs move away from our passing steps, scurrying into the deep. I shed my clothes and dip into the water.

There’s a solitary dragon blood tree at the apex of a nearby mountain. The moon glows above it. It appears to dangle from a nearby cloud.

Gone is the longing for another moment — a time other than now.

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